Dubious Gastronomy: The Cultural Politics of Eating Asian in the USA

Robert Ji-Song Ku examines the cultural politics of eating Asian in the United States through a lens that challenges traditional notions of authenticity. He focuses on foods often dismissed as inferior or counterfeit, such as the California roll, Chinese take-out, American-made kimchi, dogmeat, monosodium glutamate, and SPAM. These items are not merely culinary oddities but serve as critical evidence of how Asian identity is constructed and perceived in America. Ku argues that the American expression of Asianness is frequently judged as doubly inauthentic because it fails to meet rigid standards of what constitutes proper Asian gastronomy or reliable Americanness. By analyzing culinary expressions in cities like Los Angeles, Honolulu, New York City, and even Baton Rouge, he demonstrates that these hybridized foods are just as significant for understanding Asian people as historical dishes from Tokyo, Seoul, and Shanghai. The text bridges American studies, Asian American studies, and food studies to show that impure cultural expressions hold their own value. This work appeals to readers who enjoy thinking about the intersection of culture, politics, and diet. It suits those interested in how diasporic communities negotiate identity through everyday practices. Readers seeking straightforward recipes or traditional historical accounts may find this theoretical approach less engaging. Ku’s analysis concludes that while cultural authenticity is a complicated concept, the dubious nature of these foods does not diminish their worth or flavor.